Thursday, January 31, 2008

PRIVATE SYDNEY Andrew Hornery - The Sydney Morning Herald - 31st January 2008

THE rehabilitation of Sydney's Bra Boys from would-be notorious gangstas to lightweight celebrities appears complete, with the media in the United States falling head over heels for the Abberton brothers.

However a few minor details appear to be missing from the coverage being generated by Koby Abberton , such as the nine-month suspended sentence for perverting the course of justice, relating to a shooting over which his brother Jai was acquitted of murder in 2005.

But with friends such as Russell Crowe about to direct your life story on the big screen, why bother with semantics?

On Tuesday the New York Daily News, which caught up with the Abbertons as they swanned around Robert Redford's Sundance Film Festival promoting their documentary, Bra Boys, with the likes of good mate Paris Hilton, described Abberton simply as a "pro-surfer-turned-filmmaker".

The newspaper reported a mildly amusing tale about how the Abbertons and Crowe first got to know one another, describing the association as "a beautiful friendship".

On Monday Abberton's Bra Boys won best documentary at the 2008 X-Dance Film Festival in Salt Lake City, a spin-off from the Sundance festival. The director, Sunny Abberton, and his crew accepted the award, telling the crowd "this film is proof of what brotherhood really means".

Media Man Australia Profiles

Surfing

Bra Boys

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Surfers bustin' down the door of film festival, by David Knox - The Sun-Herald - 13th January 2008

Australian surfing greats will join Hollywood superstar Cate Blanchett as guests of the prestige Santa Barbara International Film Festival this month.

Former world champions Mark Richards and Wayne Bartholomew have been invited to a civic reception hosted by Santa Barbara Mayor Marty Blum on January 26, the day Blanchett will be presented with the festival's Modern Master award.

Richards, 50, and Bartholomew, 53, are among Australian, South African and American surfers featured in a documentary Bustin' Down The Door, which will have its world premiere at the festival in the Californian city on January 27.

The film's title is the same as a controversial article written by Bartholomew for US magazine Surfer in January 1977.

The article dealt with the emergence of Australian and South African surfers on the Hawaiian contest scene.

The story and the brashness of some of the visiting surfers triggered a violent reaction from local surfers.

Emerging from a brokered peace was the fledgling world professional circuit, won in its first seven years by Australian Peter Townend, Shaun Tomson, Bartholomew and Richards (four times).

Top-paid surfers on the circuit now earn tens of thousands of dollars in prizemoney and millions in sponsorship from surf industry giants such as Quiksilver, Billabong, Rip Curl, Rusty and Volcom.

Director Jeremy Gosch's film includes footage of the surfers in Hawaii in the 1970s and interviews with them 30 years later.

The film, narrated by twice Oscar-nominated actor Edward Norton, is the brainchild of Tomson.

"Shaun felt the exploits of the surfers from that era had been overlooked," Richards said yesterday.

"What we did then was create the blueprint for professional surfing. Surfers now are reaping the rewards."

Former surf magazine editor Bill Sharp wrote: "It should be made into law that every spoiled-brat pro surfer being paid a single dollar in sponsorship should be duct-taped to a chair and forced to watch this film until he fully understands the debt he owes these pioneers who busted down the door on behalf of a future generation."

Film festival director Roger Durling said: "I am super stoked to have Bustin' Down the Door."

Blanchett is also in a festival entry, the documentary In The Company Of Actors, whose cast includes her husband, Andrew Upton, and Hugo Weaving.

Other stars to be honoured at the festival include Julie Christie, Ryan Gosling, Angelina Jolie, Tommy Lee Jones and Javier Bardem.

Richards will take Ms Blum a letter of greeting from Newcastle Mayor John Tate and Bartholomew will do the same with a message from Gold Coast Mayor and former champion long distance runner Ron Clarke.

Media Man Australia Profiles

Surfing

Film Festivals

Monday, January 07, 2008

Surfing Sally's on top of the world - The Sydney Morning Herald - 7th January 2008

New South Wales surfer Sally Fitzgibbons won the junior women's world championship at North Narrabeen beach today, thrashing Kiwi Paige Hareb in the final.

The 17-year-old from Gerroa, just south of Wollongong, had a two-wave score of 16.77 points to Hareb's 7.84.

The multiple Australian champion had the final in the bag with eight minutes to go when she completed a near perfect 9.27 ride to leave her opponent requiring a combination of scores to win.

Fitzgibbons had a nine-point ride in each of her four rounds and a perfect ten in her semi-final win over Narrabeen surfer Laura Enever in the one-metre swell.

"I had a tough semi against Laura, she put me in a pretty good situation and I needed a good score," Fitzgibbons said.

"I thought if the wave comes, it comes but if not, she deserves a good win and I was just stoked to get through that one and was on a high for the final."

It was the third straight junior women's title for Australia following the victories of current WCT competitor Jessi Miley-Dyer and Nicola Atherton of Bronte.

A budding WCT surfer, Fitzgibbons will be crowned alongside Australia's 2007 elite tour champions Stephanie Gilmore and Mick Fanning in an award ceremony on the Gold Coast in March.

Hareb, the 17-year-old event wildcard from Taranaki, ended as the best ever New Zealand performer - man or woman - at the professional level.

Yesterday, Brazilian Pablo Paulino captured his second junior men's championship.

Media Man Australia Profiles

Surfing

Industry rides a wave of change, by Tim Elliot - Fairfax - 12th December 2007

Everyone, it seems, wants to be a surfer - or, at least, to look like one. This is good news for the surf industry, which racked up $11 billion in retail sales last year. Yet for an industry whose identity is so intimately linked to the oceans, surfing has remained curiously aloof from environmental issues.

Surfing's base components - fibreglass boards, rubber wetsuits and mass-produced clothes and accessories - are inherently unsustainable, and yet the industry has offered little beyond bamboo boards and organic cotton T-shirts.

"The surfing fraternity is great when it comes to grassroots campaigns to protect beaches and coastal communities, but the industry as a whole hasn't reflected that concern, because, like other industries, it's profit-driven," says Ian Cohen, a Greens MP and co-founder of the Cleans Seas Coalition. Cohen, a surfer, once rammed an eight-metre poo through the doors of Ballina Shire Council chambers to protest against a proposed sewage outfall at Lennox Head, on the state's North Coast.

The Surfrider Foundation Australia, a not-for-profit organisation dedicated to the protection and preservation of the world's oceans and beaches, has been similarly critical. "On the whole, the industry is still dragging its feet," says Stuart Ball, Surfrider's general manager.

Now, however, there are signs of change. In the US, an increasing number of surf brands have started offering environmentally sound products, including organically sourced T-shirts, hats, shoes and sandals. "And many companies, such as Reef, Sole Tech, Volcom and Sector 9, have altered their business operations to reduce their carbon footprint, from using wind credits for power, to new packaging methods and significant waste reduction," says Sean Smith, executive director of the US-based Surf Industry Manufacturers Association.

In August the Surfrider Foundation launched Project Blue, a campaign by some of Australia's biggest surf companies to donate part of their sales to environmental issues. One of the initiative's big sponsors is Billabong, whose products include boardshorts that are made from 100 per cent recycled PET bottles.

Like most big surf companies, the bulk of Billabong's $1.2 billion annual turnover comes from clothes (surfboards represent only a fraction of the industry). This is a problem, says a recent report in the magazine Australian Surf Business, because clothing and textile production "is only narrowly behind oil and mining as one of the most polluting industries on the planet".

Clothing production generates large volumes of waste and consumes huge amounts of energy and water, taking up to 200 litres of water and thousands of chemicals to produce, dye and finish one kilogram of fabric. Billabong's clothes are mostly manufactured in Asia, a practice that has drawn criticism for the surf industry, over its outsourcing of environmental responsibility to developing nations. A spokesman for Billabong, John Mossop, says he is "aware of that issue", and that each of the company's off-shore suppliers "must demonstrate they are working to local environmental laws".

An industry leader, Quiksilver, whose global turnover reached $2.73 billion last year, has developed a range of bags and backpacks using Q-Tec, an environmentally friendly alternative to PVC.
"Q-Tec contains no dioxins, no heavy metals and is more durable than traditional PVCs," says Chloe Messner, the manager of the Quiksilver Foundation. "We've also halved the amount of plastic packaging we use in the warehouse, and we are a certified Wastewise organisation, meaning we reduce and recycle as much as possible."

Rip Curl, meanwhile, has employed a purchasing manager to secure certified ecological products (like hemp, ramie and bamboo), and is developing ways to recycle its petroleum-based neoprene wetsuits (they are torn up and made into beanbag filler).
Overseas, alternatives to the notoriously toxic process of manufacturing surfboards are emerging, with the US-based company Homeblown developing the industry's first plant-based polyurethane blank.

Homeblown says that its Biofoam, made from plant oils, not only has a finer and more uniform cell structure than foams made with petroleum-based materials but results in a 23 per cent reduction in total energy demand.
"It is time for the surfing community to walk the walk of environmentalism it often talks about," the company says on its website.

But some industry figures are sceptical. "If you look closely, most of the initiatives are more marketing exercises than anything else," says Sean Doherty, the editor of the magazine Tracks. "Overall, the industry is still pretty poisonous."

The Surfrider Foundation's Stuart Ball says surf companies must take the opportunity to lead. "They have to see that going green is the way of the future, and that young consumers will increasingly demand that companies operate in an environmentally responsible manner."

Bridging the gap

Helping hand for the residents on shore

IN 1999 Dave Jenkins, a New Zealand doctor, went for a surfing holiday to the Mentawai Islands, an archipelago 150 kilometres off the coast of Sumatra. He found surf, but he also found villages ravaged by malaria, malnourishment, chronic diarrhoea and chest infections. "The incongruity between the tropical surf paradise and the suffering of the local people really affected me," Jenkins says. "So I decided to do so something about."

In 2000 Jenkins founded SurfAid International, a non-profit humanitarian organisation that has become one of the most innovative and effective in the world, recently winning the World Association of Non-Governmental Organisations 2007 Humanitarian Award in Toronto, Canada.

SurfAid has long relied on the surf industry for funding, with one of the biggest donors being Quiksilver. In 2003 it "adopted" Katiet, a tiny village that fronts on to the surf break Lance's Rights, on the island of Sipora. The company has since given $340,000 to SurfAid's Mentawai programs (with a further $100,000 committed over the next two years), culminating with the launch in Katiet last month of the Quiksilver-SurfAid Community Health Training Centre.

The centre operates with a staff of seven in a converted copra trading post and focuses on improving the health of the people through behavioural change. "There are no turn-key solutions," Jenkins says. "Disease prevention is about long-term cultural shifts."

A big part of the centre's work is in land and resource management. "Many of the health problems here stem from poor nutrition," says a SurfAid program director, Brendan Hoare, an agriculturalist and specialist in rural development. "The main diet is taro and banana, which doesn't provide enough micronutrients, meaning that many of the kids you see are physically and mentally stunted. So we're trying to get them to grow a wider variety of food."

The community centre features a model fruit and vegetable garden, where Hoare holds demonstrations and grows seedlings to give away. He is encouraging more composting - important in the predominantly sandy soil - and the greater use of natural fertilisers such as chicken and pig manure. "Many of these ideas were practised here in the past but have been lost to the culture, just as they have been largely lost from Western culture, too," Hoare says.

The water table is prone to pollution from leaking cesspits. "So we're putting a rainwater tank in every house, which should cut down on water-borne contamination."

Hoare, a surfer, is in two minds about the impact of surfing on the local people. "The introduction of a cash culture has in some instances resulted in the loss of more sustainable practices."

Others are more optimistic. "It's easy to be cynical about the effect that surfing has had on the islands," says Bruce Raymond, a former pro-surfer and Quiksilver brand ambassador. "But surfing brought attention to the area. It shone a spotlight on the place, on the good things and the bad things and their needs. It shows that with the right leadership surfers can make a difference."

Media Man Australia Profiles

Surfing

Creating waves, by Larissa Dubecki - 6th October 2007 - The Age

Not one to follow the pack, this classical musician puts his $10m violin aside for an instrument of a different kind - a surfboard, but not just any surfboard.

IT WAS his first session in the water on the surfing trip of a lifetime, but it could have been his last. Richard Tognetti, Australian Chamber Orchestra artistic director, classical music poster boy and pioneer of new-wave surfing, stood on his board in the unforgiving swell of Bass Strait pounding onto the sparse, windswept King Island and planted himself face-first into the sand.

Friends on the beach felt sick when they saw the angle at which he fell, doubly so when he came up clutching his neck, but reports that the ACO would be needing a new lead violin turned out to be premature.

"I landed on my forehead," Tognetti says laughing. "It was nothing — only a graze, but it must have looked pretty bad."

There was no lasting damage done, save for the large red mark on his forehead that is immortalised in Musica Surfica, the documentary commemorating the event of the same name. The King Island trip, which took place during a week in May, had Tognetti, 42, and some big names in surfing such as two-time world champion Tom Carroll, wooden board specialist Tom Wegener and Australia's No. 2-ranked junior surfer, Heath Joske, take part in a radical experiment. The call to join them on the island, a well-regarded if not overly visited surfing spot, had gone out from Derek Hynd, one of Tognetti's closest friends and a former champion pro-surfer referred to by figures in the industry as a "genius" and a "surfing provocateur". The only stipulation was that the boards had to be finless.

A surfboard without fins, which aid balance and movement, is to most modern surfers like a car with no steering wheel. A finless board is in many ways a paradox, requiring fresh thinking or the use of ancient methods pioneered more than 1000 years ago in the Hawaiian islands and largely forgotten in the 20th century with the domination of the quick manoeuvring, foam and fibreglass three-finned board known as the Thruster.

"We had an interesting surf pack down there," says Tognetti. "It was absolutely radical watching the likes of Tom Carroll trying to surf these boards and master them. We had the ancient Hawaiian boards like the olo, koko'o and alaia, and then these radical new devices — these spinning boards, as we called them."

The footage is remarkable, especially to anyone familiar only with competition-driven surfing from the likes of the Bells Beach event. Wegener stands like a captain on a ship on a massive olo, ploughing majestically through the water. Carroll wipes out again and again, reduced to amateur status despite his mastery of the finned board. The nimble Hynd zips through, crouched low on a board that looks no bigger than an Eski lid, and pulls off six quick spins in a row. And Tognetti, in scenes that might have the ACO management committee reaching for the smelling salts, performs a series of perfect 360-degree turns on what looks like a conventional surfboard sawn in half.

It's unusual for a highly trained musician to put his metacarpals — not to mention his head — on the line in the pursuit of sport, but the saltwater running through Tognetti's veins is the legacy of his Wollongong childhood, which was spent following his older brother into the surf at Puckey's, to the north of the city. Things took an unconventional turn when he moved to Sydney at the age of 11 to study violin at the Sydney Conservatorium of Music, the start of a six-year surf hiatus broken when the lure of Bondi grew too insistent. As artistic director of the ACO since the age of 24, his rigorous touring schedule means he often hits the waves on borrowed boards.

Tognetti is rare among musicians of the classical ilk in attracting mainstream attention. His permanent bed-hair and pierced ear would be recognisable to many people less conversant with composers such as Sibelius and Paganini. The glamour that surrounds him is compounded by his $10 million Giuseppe Guarneri del Gesu violin, built in 1743 and one of only 100 in the world, which made headlines when it was permanently loaned by an anonymous benefactor at the start of the year. He calls actor Russell Crowe a friend after tutoring him for his violin-playing role in Master and Commander. His marriage break-up last year, and repartnering with ACO assistant lead violinist Satu Vanska, was reported breathlessly in the gossip column of Sydney's Sunday Telegraph.

An exponent of Socrates' aphorism that the unexamined life is not worth living, Tognetti's philosophy of the surf is Catholic enough to encompass late-19th century composer Eric Satie and 1960s counter-culture icon Timothy Leary. He quotes Leary on surfers, while apologising for the loftiness: "They aren't the black sheep of humanity, but the futurists and they are leading the way to where man ultimately wants to be."

Friction-free surfing, as the finless experience has been dubbed, is rule-breaking, he says, in a similar way to paddling a pink surfboard out at Sydney's Maroubra beach while wearing a yellow wetsuit (he adds that he wouldn't encourage anyone to do that as they would get "the shit beaten out of them"). It's about abandoning the "slash and burn" mentality of modern surfing and opening the mind to the myriad possibilities of movement through the waves. It's about embracing the flow of creativity in any aspect of life.

"People following the pack is the worst thing you can do to the imagination," Tognetti says. "And to be creative is the greatest gift we have. It's what separates us from the animals. If you move around in a pack you just rot. Whereas if you use the creative part of your mind you come alive. I would rate our trip as a success from the first day simply by the number of whoops I heard in the water."

Musica Surfica was not simply a meeting of saltwater intellectuals. The three surfing members of the ACO — along with Tognetti there was Vanska and cellist Julian Thompson — were joined by esteemed folk musicians Mike Keran and Danny Spooner for a series of concerts performed for King Island locals. One of the delights of the documentary is seeing some of the surfers, after their first-ever classical music concert, grasping for words to describe their emotions at the playing of Irish traditionals, Paganini and Bach.

The film's director, Melbourne-based advertising art director and surf nut Mick Sowry, was invited along after he contacted Tognetti about scoring music for a separate surf film project. "I see surfing as a modern dance form, and I love classical music, and musically, I just wanted something different from the normal kind of music you get on surf films," says Sowry. "Our initial plan was to film Musica Surfica so they could have a visual background to their concerts later in the year, but it became obvious there was a bigger story. My job was to try and tease that story out of a bunch of guys who were falling off surfboards all day."

Last Monday's ACO concert at Melbourne's Hamer Hall was far removed from the derelict King Island dairy, but the bill shared the Tognetti risk-taking signature, with the lilting arrangement of Copland's Appalachian Spring: Suite followed by Anthony Pateras' exploratory Autophagy, a ragged and discordant contemporary work involving piano, strings and computer that received rousing cheers and giggling bemusement in equal measure.

The bill concluded with Sonic, a spoken-word collaboration with cartoonist and writer Michael Leunig (who, along with Tognetti, has been anointed a National Living Treasure by the National Trust) based on Saint-Saens' Carnival of the Animals but transposed to human personality types.

Tognetti's favourite lines, naturally, are about the eccentric ("Yet, of all the creatures, the true non-conformist/Is often the brightest, the boldest and warmest"). It sums up Musica Surfica's exploration of parallels between surfing, music and art; not to mention the sometimes hilarious images of the surfers falling off what must be the strangest collection of surfboards ever assembled.

"To stand still and imagine that you're correct and the assumption that you've found the way in art is for me an acknowledgment that you're stagnating. Art isn't about winning. You can't quantify it. It's hard to qualify. The judging criteria on art is very subjective and very different to something with sport," Tognetti says in the film. "You need to accept failure. Look at all the composers, most of them weren't successful, in a conventional sense, in their lifetimes."

His 17-year tenure at the helm of the ACO has been marked by a singular vision not always popular with purists. He has previously collaborated with artists as diverse as rock musicians Peter Garrett and Neil Finn, and photographer Bill Henson. The ACO program for 2008 features popular singer Katie Noonan appearing in a program of works by British composers and children's choir Gondwana Voices performing The Red Tree against images from Shaun Tan's book of the same name.

Musica Surfica is set to continue with the ACO's second orchestra — the emerging artists program — on its tour of the NSW and Queensland coasts this month. Footage from King Island will be the backdrop to a Tognetti arrangement of Pink Floyd's Shine On You Crazy Diamond and Paganini. Tim Freedman from the Whitlams and an Egyptian wood player are expected to join the tour, as is Hynd and possibly Carroll, the carefully chosen music and presentation of new-wave surfing opening children's minds, Tognetti hopes, to different ways of thinking.

"Think of the surfers back in the '70s," he says. "The surfing lifestyle wasn't mainstream; surfers had reputations as left-of-field thinkers, ratbags and outcasts, total eccentrics. What a weird thing to do, to travel by boat to remote Indonesian islands in search of the perfect wave. Now you've got these big multinational companies and everyone's riding exactly the same boards and wearing the same clothes and listening to the same music and talking the same language, from California to the west coast of Australia. We're just trying to reclaim a bit of the soul — as lofty as that may sound."

There are some unexpected problems combining surfing with music. Surfer's nose — an unexpected saline nasal drip that can gush from the nose hours after leaving the water — can be a problem when you're holding a $10 million violin, he told surfing journalist Tim Baker in his recent book High Surf. Playing standards can suffer after fingers have been immersed in cold water all day. But more often the intersection of surfing and music is, for Tognetti, a thrilling example of creative possibility.

"You've got to be a futurist in surfing because you're doing an astonishing thing on a wave. It's between performance and sport. Like playing the violin, if ever I feel insouciant, if ever I take it for granted I slap myself as hard as I can because it's an amazing gift to have."

Musica Surfica will screen on Foxtel in December.

Larissa Dubecki is a staff writer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmLOJ0aDJeo)

Profiles

Surfing

Foxtel

MUSICA SURFICA Australia Day World Premiere

MUSICA SURFICA

Australia Day World Premiere

Saturday, January 26 at 8.30pm

FOXTEL PRESENTS THIS INSPIRING DOCUMENTARY

FEATURING RICHARD TOGNETTI and DEREK HYND

World-renowned violinist Richard Tognetti teams up with surfing supremo Derek Hynd in the inspiring documentary MUSICA SURFICA which will make its Australia Day World Television Premiere on Saturday, January 26 at 8.30pm exclusively on Bio.

MUSICA SURFICA is a documentary that follows one man’s creative journey. Richard Tognetti, leading violinist and artistic Director of the Australian Chamber Orchestra, as he searches for new inspiration and explores new boundaries in classical music and experimental surfing.

Richard Tognetti, an incredibly gifted and brilliant violinist is also a life-long surfer. Richard, who has a love for the ocean, teams up with Derek Hynd, one of the world’s most influential surfers … a thinker, a man with a twinkle in his cultural eye. Both are virtuosos, but with their major talents in different worlds.

In this stunning documentary Richard and Derek bring together a unique gathering of classical musicians and top surfers on remote King Island, as they explore new boundaries in experimental surfing and classical music.

During their King Island sojourn, Richard and surfer members of the Australian Chamber Orchestra, along with guest musicians, develop a new repertoire and perform for the people of King Island. It is an unlikely but electrifying combination of classical and folk music, a return to music’s roots, which has since toured Australia to much acclaim.

At the same time, Australia’s leading surfers, including two time world champion Tom Carroll, were given a challenge. Every surfer, and surfer musician, rode un-finned, or unconventionally finned surfboards.

Highlights of the documentary include:

  • Richard Tognetti, performs with a Guarneri del Gesu “Carrodus” Violin, an extraordinary instrument crafted in 1743 and conservatively valued at $A 10 million.

  • The violin was donated to him by an anonymous benefactor earlier this year.

  • This is one of the first “finless” surfing events since the days of the ancient Hawaiians.

  • Unique footage of surfers riding radically designed, unfinned surfboards AND surfboards based on 300 year old Hawaiian designs.

  • A rare combination of surfing and outstanding performances and classical music soundtracks by the Australian Chamber Orchestra.

MUSICA SURFICA was produced by Us Phoques Pty Ltd, Writer & Director Mick Sowry, Producers Simon Whitney and Richard Keddie. MUSICA SURFICA was financed by the Australian Film Commission and FOXTEL.


MUSICA SURFICA

World Television Premiere

Saturday January 26,

at 8.30pm EST on Bio.

Media Man Australia Profiles

Surfing

Foxtel

Tuesday, January 01, 2008

Swell could be seven feet on weekend, by Mark Furler - Sunshine Coast Daily - 1st January 2008

The intense low pressure system that has hovered off Fraser Island since last Friday may have wreaked havoc with plans of holiday suntans but for surfers chasing power and size it has broken a long drought.

Noosa’s points have been pumping since Saturday while Mooloolaba has come into its own.

Normally a safe family beach Mooloolaba has delivered enough grunt to attract the likes of professional big wave rider Mark Visser and pro surf Leigh Sedley.

Ti-Tree and Boiling Pot have produced the pick of the waves at Noosa National Park, but the crowds in the water and the packed carparks have seen many surfers decide to sit out the wild conditions.

But with big seas predicted to continue well into January the opportunity for less crowded conditions may develop as surfers become exhausted by the constant battle with dumping waves and powerful sweeps.

The low pressure system that has brought the weather and waves of the past week is starting to drift slowly north but forecasters predict that while the swell will ease to 5.9 feet by Thursday afternoon it will be back over seven feet by late Saturday.

Experts advise caution in surf, by Sam Benger - Sunshine Coast Daily - 31st December 2007

Surfing experts have been left dismayed by the number of inexperienced surfers who literally got in over their heads at beaches across the Sunshine Coast yesterday.

Despite some great sets, there were too many people in the water who should not have been there, said Sunshine Coast Daily surfing correspondent Robbie Sherwell.

“There are a lot of what I would call ‘weekend surfers’ in the water, and they can be a danger to themselves and other people,” he said.

Some people even swam in the rough conditions and a few even let their children get in the water.

He described their actions as “naive and arrogant”.

“They’ve seen the warnings on TV and they know only to swim between the flags, and they’ve also got the lifesavers warning them on the beach and over the PA system but they’re still going in.

“It’s a mixture of naivety and arrogance – they have no idea how powerful the ocean can be.

“There were a lot of broken boards today and no doubt some people were hurt.”

Big wave surfer Mark Visser agreed that surfers who didn’t know what they were doing should stay out of the water.

“It’s pretty sweepy out there and unless you’re really confident you should stick to the smaller conditions and work your way up,” he said after tackling the swell.